F.A.Q.

ANSWER:

Quick Instructions:

Deatiled Instuctions:

If your inflatable boat, kayak, raft, or SUP becomes soft over time, air is escaping somewhere. Small pressure changes caused by colder temperatures are normal, but noticeable softening usually means there is a slow leak.

Step 1 — Check the Air Valve First

Most slow leaks are caused by loose or dirty air valves.

1. Inflate the chamber firmly
2. Close the valve cap completely
3. Spray or apply soapy water around the valve
4. Watch closely for bubbles

If bubbles appear:

• Tighten the valve using the valve tool included with your repair kit
• Make sure the pushpin is in the closed (up) position
• Check for dirt or sand on the rubber seal

Sometimes cleaning the valve with compressed air or a small amount of MEK or acetone can solve the problem.

Step 2 — Check the Seams

If the valve is not leaking:

1. Spray soapy water along all seams
2. Wait several minutes
3. Look carefully for tiny bubbles

Using a flashlight may help detect very slow leaks. If bubbles appear along a seam, the seam will need repair.

Step 3 — Check the Fabric Surface

Tiny punctures can be difficult to see.

1. Inflate the chamber until firm
2. Apply soapy water to small sections at a time using a rag, towel, or brush
3. Watch for tiny bubbles forming

Do not spray the entire boat at once. Work in smaller sections to make leaks easier to spot. Mark all leaks with tape or marker.

Step 4 — If You Still Cannot Find the Leak

Try these additional methods:

• Listen carefully for escaping air
• Press on the chamber to increase pressure
• Submerge sections of the chamber under water and look for bubbles
• Use plastic food wrap method shown in our videos

PVC Boat Repair Instructions

Important Information About PVC Glue

PVC adhesive works by chemically softening and welding two PVC surfaces together. The glue itself is not meant to act as a thick layer between materials. For strongest repairs:

• Always apply thin glue coats
• Avoid excessive glue
• Work in low humidity
• Use heat when possible

High humidity can weaken glue bonding.

Repairing Tiny Pinholes (Less Than 1/8")

Small punctures may not require a patch.

1. Deflate the boat
2. Clean the area with MEK or acetone
3. Apply a small drop of PVC glue directly onto the hole
4. Let dry for 24 hours

Emergency repair:

• Allow at least 30 minutes drying time
• Inflate chamber only about 75% full temporarily

Installing a PVC Patch

Step 1 — Prepare the Patch

• Cut patch at least 1 inch larger than damaged area
• Round all corners
• Use matching PVC fabric if possible

Step 2 — Clean the Surfaces

Clean both:

• Repair area
• Back side of patch

Use MEK or acetone 2–3 times, allowing several minutes between cleanings. This removes oils and contaminants that prevent proper bonding.

Step 3 — Apply Glue

Apply a thin layer of PVC adhesive to:

• Patch
• Repair area

Allow glue to become tacky for approximately 5 minutes. Do not apply excessive glue.

Step 4 — Install the Patch

Carefully place the patch onto the repair area.

Press firmly using:

• Roller
• Spoon
• Smooth rounded object

Work from center outward to remove trapped air.

Step 5 — Use Heat (Recommended)

For stronger bonding:

• Warm surfaces with a heat gun or hair dryer
• Apply pressure while warm

Do not overheat PVC. Heat helps activate the adhesive and improves the chemical weld.

Step 6 — Cure Time

• Allow repair to dry for 24 hours
• After curing, apply thin glue around patch edges if desired
• Allow additional drying time before use

Recommended Glue

The repair kit glue can be used for normal repairs. For best results, many customers prefer 2-part PVC adhesive. Make sure glue is designed specifically for PVC boats, not Hypalon/CSM.

Common repair glues include:

• HH-66 Vinyl Cement
• Other PVC inflatable boat adhesives

Heat Welding Alternative

PVC can also be repaired using hot-air PVC welding tools. These tools melt PVC surfaces together without traditional glue. Practice on scrap PVC material first before attempting repairs on the boat.

Graphic instructions:

Video - How To Use heat gun as glue accelerator.

Video - How To Install Patch.

Video - How To Fix Huge Cut In Inflatable Boat.

Video - How To Fix Leaking Valve.

Video - How To Stop Slow Seam Leak.

Video - How To Fix Big Seam Opening.

Video - How To Fix Slow Leak Using Sealant.

Video - How To Replace Valve including inside socket.

Search YouTube for more videos of inflatable boats repairs.

ANSWER:

All inflatable products, including dinghies, kayaks, and rafts, undergo thorough testing at our manufacturing facility. During assembly, inflatables are kept fully inflated to ensure correct installation of all components, such as the transom, splash guards, rub strakes, etc. No components are attached unless the product is fully inflated, and this process can last for several weeks to guarantee quality. Any air pressure loss is addressed and resolved well before packing. Products that do not maintain air pressure are not packed or shipped, as it is inefficient for both us and the manufacturer to deal with inflatables leaking air out of box.

If you experience rapid air leakage from a valve during initial inflation, it is most likely due to improper valve locking. Ensure that the valve is securely locked by checking the pushpin, which has two positions: up (closed) and down (open). Make sure the pushpin is in the up position to prevent air from escaping.

Should you notice the air chambers softening after leaving your boat fully inflated for several days or weeks, this may be attributed to one of the following causes:

1. A micro-puncture on the fabric surface due to boat use or shipping damage, if there are holes in a shipping box,
2. A leaking air valve,
3. A leaking seam, which, though rare, is considered a warranty issue.

Please note that, due to the separation of air chambers by inner baffles, an air leak in one chamber can potentially cause adjacent chambers to become soft as well. That is normal, because baffles are not flat as a drum, but elongated.

All BoatsToGo inflatable boats are designed with separate internal chambers for added safety. In the event of a suspected air leak, it is important to identify which chamber is affected.

To pinpoint the leaking chamber, follow these steps:

1. Deflate all chambers except one.
2. Inflate the remaining chamber to full pressure.
3. Monitor if the chamber softens over time or apply soapy water to check for air bubbles.
   
If the inflated chamber maintains pressure and no bubbles are observed, the issue likely lies in a different chamber. Repeat this process for each chamber until the leak is identified.

If you suspect a valve is the source of a slow air leak, you can verify this by following these steps:

1. Fully inflate the air chamber.
2. Close the valve cover, and then apply a soapy water mixture around the valve housing and cover cap.
3. Observe carefully for any air escaping around the valve body, cover cap perimeter, or where the securing string enters the valve housing.

In cases where the leak is very slow, detecting air bubbles may not be immediate. You can increase the pressure by gently pressing on the inflated chamber or wait a few minutes. If the valve is leaking, small bubbles will eventually form at the leak point.

Over time, debris such as sand, dirt, oils, or grime can accumulate on the valve's rubber seal ring, compromising its airtight integrity. This can result in a slow leak, causing the chambers to soften. To clean the valve:

1. Blow air into the open valve using a hand pump, keeping the hose slightly away from the valve's unlocked pushpin to dislodge debris.
2. Alternatively, splash a small amount of acetone into the valve to dissolve dirt and grime. Leave the valve open to allow the acetone to evaporate.

If these steps do not resolve the issue, you may need to remove the valve using a specialized valve tool. Clean the rubber seal with a cotton swab soaked in acetone, and re-install the valve securely. If the leak persists after cleaning, the valve should be replaced.

Question: Why air valve would leak in a brand new inflatable vessel?

Answer: For compact shipping, inflatable vessels are tightly packed by using an air compressor to remove all air, and the product is then very tightly folded to fit into a small box to reduce shipping costs. Sometimes, the valve may be near a fold line, creating tension on the fabric around the valve housing, which can slightly loosen the valve and cause a slow air leak. Though rare, this can happen, which is why valve tool and spare valve are included with each Saturn inflatable.

If air bubbles are observed around the valve housing perimeter while applying a soapy mixture, this indicates a potential issue with the valve's seal. In this case, the valve may need to be tightened using a specialized valve tool to ensure a proper airtight fit. Such tools may be purchased or borrowed at https://www.BoatsToGo.com/valves.asp. It should also be included with your repair kit.

Leaking valves is common issue with any type or brand of inflatable boats, rafts and paddle boards. Just see these numerous YouTube videos showing how to tighten or replace air valve. This is why a valve tool is typically included in the repair kit, allowing you to tighten the valve as needed and restore an airtight seal. Please download valve tightening or replacement instructions here.

You can also temporarily seal a slow-leaking air valve by applying a thin layer of glue around the valve housing perimeter. If air bubbles are observed where the string securing the valve cover enters the valve housing, a drop of glue can be applied directly to that area. Alternatively, household silicone sealant can be used in place of glue for a more flexible and durable seal.

How to find difficult to locate leak on a surface. https://youtu.be/B9l0lcPk8ZY.

Click Play to see Videos how to replace air valve.

ANSWER:

Once inflated, a high pressure air floor becomes as rigid as a plywood floor. You can stand, walk or even jump on it, the same way you could on plywood floor.

If you are planning to inflate and deflate your boat often, then the air floor is your best solution, because the boat folds compactly. It's a breeze to assemble and inflatable boats with air floor. Just roll out-and inflate.

Assembling a plywood floor is a little bit of a hassle, and therefore we recommend plywood floors only if you keep the boat inflated most of the time. Another advantage of an air floor is that it is much lighter then a plywood floor. Due to it's lighter weight, the boat can achieve a higher speed much easier then with a plywood floor. Plus, an air floor is easy on your knees and absorbs vibrations better then a plywood floor. Because of these outstanding features, most of our customers prefer boats with air floors.

All of our air floors come with a plywood support above the keel in the bow section of the boat. Because of these patented features, air floors become very rigid and flat. Flat floors perform much better then bended air floors of some competing brands.

ANSWER:

Please see all technical specifications for Saturn inflatable boats at https://www.BoatsToGo.com/inflatable_boats.asp. Max persons capacity displays how many persons the boat can transport safely. In general, to be comfortable on an inflatable boat, you will need to deduct 1-2 persons from the max boat capacity. For example, SD260's will comfortably seat 1-2 people, SD290/330's 2-3 people, SD365/385 3-4 people; SD430's will accommodate 4-5 people comfortable.

It is much easier to inflate and deflate boats with high-pressure air deck floors than boats with plywood floors or hard floors. It takes more time and skill to assemble plywood floor. In general, if you are planning to inflate/deflate the boat often, then select a boat with an air floor. If you keep the boat fully inflated for at least 1-3 weeks then choose a boat a with plywood or hard floor. If you keep boat on a trailer or in a dock, then a hard floor will not be a problem for you. If you keep the boat in the car's trunk and inflate it for only a day of fishing, then you will find it easier to deal with an air deck floor.

ANSWER:

There are two main types of fabric that most inflatable boats are made of. They are either PVC or Hypalon. Most Mercury, Sea Eagle and Zodiac inflatable boats are made of PVC. Caribe, AB and Achilles inflatable boats were made of Hypalon in past. However Hypalon was discontinued by its manufacturer Dupont, and now it is sold under different name CSM.

PVC
Pro - Significantly less expensive then Hypalon.
Con - Won't last as long in the direct sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to fade out (if left unprotected). Does not tolerate sunscreen and insect repellent as well as Hypalon.

Hypalon or CSM
Pro - Will last significantly longer than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods of direct sunlight. Will tolerate fuel spills, sunscreen, insect repellent, and exhaust fumes better than PVC.
Con - Significantly more expensive then PVC.

In general PVC fabric won't last as long as Hypalon fabric if the boat will be subjected to prolonged periods of direct sunlight and no measures have been taken to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or UV protectant). After a number of years in direct sunlight the PVC fabric will become sticky and fade out.

Exposure of PVC inflatable boat to direct sunlight is not a problem unless your boat is going to be outside and unprotected all year long. If you only use the boat occasionally such as on weekends or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if you leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be solved simply by putting a boat cover or piece of tarp over your boat when it is not in use.

ANSWER:

Please visit the Hard Floor Assembly page if you have difficulties installing hard floor into your inflatable boat. You may also download a Hard Floor Assembly manual.

ANSWER:

First of all - do not panic. Most inflatable boats, rafts and kayaks have several air chambers, and if one of chambers gets punctured, the boat will stay afloat due to the buoyancy of the remaining air chambers.

Inflatable air chambers are separated by internal baffles that keep chambers separate in case of accidental puncture, and designed to equalize air pressure between all interconnected chambers.

We suggest that you always carry on board the following items - Personal Flotation Device (PFD) for each passenger along with a whistle, a marine emergency radio to call the Coast Guard for help if necessary, a hand pump, piece of duct tape (Gorilla Tape) and a small bottle of acetone.

If boat gets punctured below the water line, there is nothing much you can do except for pumping air with a hand pump in order to slow down the air leak. For quick emergency repairs in ripped inflatables, you can purchase a ClamSeal.

Punctures in accessible places, inside the boat, can be temporarily fixed with a piece of duct, Flex tape or Gorilla tape. To insure a good seal, the area around the puncture should be cleaned with acetone before applying duct tape. After that, you can pump in air to slow down the escaping air, and get ashore as soon as possible.

ANSWER:

That is totally up to you. If you take good care of your boat, it may last 5-10 years. If you do not take proper care of the boat, it will only last up to its warranty period. However, abused and mishandled boats are not covered by the warranty.

When not in use, it is highly recommended to store PVC inflatable products in a well ventilated, shaded area. Humidity and heat are killers for PVC glue used in the assembly of inflatable boats. Do NOT store PVC inflatables in closed containers, boxes or storage areas with no ventilation and under direct sunlight. Humidity will accumulate in tightly closed storage areas and will weaken the chemical bond of PVC glue once significant heat is present.

To extend the lifetime of your boat by taking proper care of it, we are recommending following book: " INFLATABLE BOATS - Selection, Care, Repair, and Seamanship " by Jim Trefethen. ISBN number 0-07-065252-X. Available at www.amazon.com, or you may order it from the publisher: The McGraw-Hill Companies, 1-800-262-4729.

It is well known that the most common reason for premature boat aging is exposure to the sun and its damaging UV rays. Fabric discoloration, fading, breakdowns and damages to varnished plywood can be all attributed to direct sun exposure.

The solution is simple - when the boat is not in use, cover it or deflate it. There are plenty of Inflatables rotting under the damaging sun in any local marine or harbor. If possible, deflate the boat, clean it and store it in its carry bag.

If the boat is constantly dragged behind your sailboat, left year round on a dock, or left dirty and directly under harmful UV-rays, you can't expect it to last forever. If you use a boat cover , or at least cover boat with a piece of tarp, your SATURN will last much longer.

Try to keep the boat clean and free of chemical detergents and sun screen lotions that may discolor the fabric. We highly recommend boat cleaners available at the Inland Marine USA web site.

Please use ONLY cleaning solutions that are approved for PVC fabrics. Do not use CLOROX, Windex or any other household cleaners. These chemicals will make the fabric sticky over time. Sun screen lotions may contain silicon that will also make PVC fabric sticky. Clean the boat tubes of any sun screen lotion marks to extend the boat fabric life cycle.

Your local West Marine store always carry number of inflatable boats cleaners, protectants and boat paints that will help to keep your inflatable boat as good as new.

We also recommend very convenient Swipes Wipes , as they contain an excellent cleaning solution for inflatable boats. These wipes remove any type of dirt, protect against UV-rays and can make the boat look new again.

Here is two identical 4-years old Saturn boats purchased at the same time and owned by two different customers in Puerto Rico. One boat was never covered, another was cleaned and covered with a boat cover.
Guess which one of above boats was covered and which one was left under the sun? A reminder to all of our friends and customers in the hot and humid areas of South Florida, Texas, LA and the likes. Please keep in mind when storing any inflatable raft or flotation device that your garage can easily reach temperatures of 100+ degrees in the heat of summer, not to mention swelter in unprecedented levels of humidity for months on end. This unnecessary and easily avoidable exposure to constant moisture is known to corrode away at the integrity of the chemical bond used to weld your inflatable together. It is recommended by us here at Saturn that you always cover your inflatable when not in use, and when possible deflate so that you can store away within a climate controlled area of your house. Also note that if you are unable to pack away your inflatable to always reduce the amount of pressure within the tubes and floor as heat exposure will cause the air contained within the vessel to expand, ultimately resulting in a burst seem. The few extra minutes spent packing away your PVC inflatable watercraft will dramatically increase its durability and longevity helping minimize weekends lost to ruptured seams. If you will take proper care of your inflatable boat, it may last well over its warranty timeframe; over 10 years! See example of this Craigslist ad posted in March of 2015 advertising 2003 Saturn inflatable boat in a great condition.

ANSWER:

State registration requirements vary. Some states or local registration offices may require additional documentation, such as a notarized Manufacturer's Statement of Origin (MSO), specific forms, inspections, or other paperwork. Customers are responsible for verifying their local registration requirements before placing an order. BoatsToGo provides the documentation normally required for registration in all 50 states. If your local agency has additional requirements, please contact us before ordering so we can advise what documentation may be available.

If you purchased your vessel directly from us, BoatsToGo:

To register your boat for use with an outboard motor, you will need the Manufacturer Certificate of Origin (MCO), Bill of Sale (BOS), and your invoice showing the amount paid. The MCO and BOS are included inside the shipping box. Once your vessel is registered, you will receive the title by mail.

If any documents are missing, visit our Downloads page at https://www.boatstogo.com/down... to obtain replacements. You’ll also find sample forms there to help you fill out the MCO and BOS. All information must be completed by hand with a pen, including purchase price, your name, address, date of purchase, vessel length, width, and the year (the year is shown in the last two digits of the Hull Identification Number). If you have questions, feel free to email us.

The correct HIN (beginning with "VEJ") is located on the transom of your boat, on a PVC strip attached to the side if no transom present, or on the shipping box below the model number.

Important notes:

• Do not take blank forms to the registration office. They must be completed before your visit. If you are unable to fill them out, we can assist.

• If asked for a Federal Tax ID, please use 20-4161513.

• Leave the Notarization section blank. Notarization is not required for boats purchased from BoatsToGo. This section applies only if you sell the boat privately before registration.

• If you encounter problems at a DMV or Tag Agency, especially in Florida, try another location or even a different window within the same office. This often resolves the issue quickly.

• In very unlikely vent registration office require notarization, we can provide a notarized copy of the MSO for a $40 fee. Payment can be made at [https://www.BoatsToGo.com/payment.asp]. Or, you can try different location.

• If your registration is rejected due to missing “wet” signatures or poor print quality, let us know, and we will mail you new hand-signed documents.

If you purchased your vessel from a third party, private seller:
We do not provide registration documents for boats NOT purchased directly from us. Your options are:

1. If the boat was already registered, the seller must transfer the title to your name. This process is handled entirely between you and the seller.

2. If the boat was never registered, the seller must complete both the front and back of the Manufacturer Statement of Origin, including the First Assignment section, have it notarized, and then provide it to you. Instructions and examples can be found at [https://www.boatstogo.com/downloads.asp].

ANSWER:

Saturn inflatable boats and rafts are of excellent quality and workmanship. However, in efforts to pass the savings on to you, we are keeping costs as low as possible. Instead of enclosing a high quality and expensive hand pump, and then passing the cost to you, we are enclosing good quality generic hand pumps. The hand pump enclosed with the boat is free and is a complimentary gift to you.

In rare occasions, if FedEx drops the shipping box during handling, the hose of the pump may get squeezed by the weight of the boat and develop small cracks. The simplest and fastest solution for cracks in a hose would be to apply duct tape around the hose. This will make the hand pump fully operational again. However, if you wish to receive a new pump, please send damaged pump back for replacement. Click here for return address.

If the hose is fine and the pump doesn't provide enough pressure to inflate the boat, then unscrew the green cup with a T-handle and inspect the rubber seal on the plunger. If it's torn, let us know and we will send you a replacement seal.

Please note that high-performance manual and high-pressure electric pumps are available from our Accessory section.

ANSWER:

Please make sure there are no holes in a hose. Also, inspect valve adapter for damages. If pump handle moves up and down but does not pump air and there is no resistance, then follow directions below.

ANSWER:

Any of our Inflatables can be used for fishing, diving, snorkeling, spear fishing or any other fun sport activity on the water, as long as it's safe. However, please exercise caution while handling fish around Inflatables. Pectoral fins of most fish are extremely sharp and can easily puncture any PVC or Hypalon fabric. If you just throw fish inside your inflatable boat, there is a risk that the fish may jump and accidentally puncture your boat.

Pectoral fins of many fish are so small and sharp that they may create micro punctures that will not be noticed immediately. Most likely, punctures by fish fins will cause slow leaks that may take several days to notice. It is easy to fix micro holes by simply applying a drop of glue. However, to avoid the possibility of such accidental punctures by fish, we recommend dropping fish inside a basket or cooler, or to keep a collapsible fish basket attached outside of the boat with a rope. It is advisable to avoid direct contact between the live fish and the air filled chambers.

ANSWER:

Please refer to product page description for detailed information on what is included with each item. In general, most boats come with at least 1 seat bench. All boats come with a hand pump, repair kit, carry bag, aluminum oars, 4' rope and either an air or aluminum floor. Depending on a model, 2nd bench can be provided when order is placed on-line. We no longer offer plywood floors with boats.

Please visit our Accessories-Parts page for all optional accessories and spare parts.

ANSWER:

Click here for step-by-step instructions for deflating and folding your boat.

ANSWER:

We recommend that you install a hydrofoil on the outboard motor in order to improve speed and boat handling. A Hydrofoil will help put the boat on plane much faster and will help maintain the planning effect at lower speeds. See picture below, on the left without a hydrofoil, on the right with a hydrofoil installed. You can find hydrofoil in West Marine, Amazon, on-line or Wal-Mart boating section starting at $25.

ANSWER:

An air floor PVC material has been designed to be strong and puncture-resistant. But if enough pressure is applied with a sharp object, like a knife or fishing hook for example, then a puncture may sometime occur. Dog claws, in general, are not sharp enough to puncture an air floor. But small pieces of sharp broken glass or similar objects may stick to the insole of shoes while boarding the dinghy and may also cut the surface of air floors in some cases.

To avoid damage to the high-pressure air floor, and keep it as good as new, you can purchase a piece of vinyl floor covering in a hardware store, or just use regular carpeting. Cut the vinyl or carpet to fit the inside of the boat and over the floor. Use paper patterns first, to get a perfect fit. Then use this paper pattern to cut the new flooring.

Applying vinyl or carpet covering will make inflatable air floors virtually indestructible. Floor vinyl covering or carpet is flexible and may be rolled up for storage when boat is deflated. There are various options to protect floor:

• Anti-Fatigue Grip Mat Roll
• Marine Carpet
• Diamond Plate Rubber Flooring Rolls
• Corrugated Rubber Floor Mat
• Runner Mats
• Hardwood Floors Chair Mat Floor Protector
• Recycled Rubber roll mat
• Self-Adhesive EVA Deck Foam
• Yoga Foam Mat Roll

Please see our Blog entry "How to protect air deck floor from accidental punctures." for more information and pictures.

ANSWER:

Towing bridle is necessary in order to properly tow your inflatable boat. Towing bridles are available at many marine retail stores and on-line. Do not tow the inflatable boat by connecting rope to the central D-ring with integrated handle. Use towing D-rings on both sides of the dinghy bow. When using boat trailer, do not pull heavily loaded boat with outboard motor over dry bunks. Either use side towing D-rings, or install rollers. Front D-ring may rip off when pulling heavily loaded boat over dry bunks. 

The most common mistake made when towing is the improper use of the towing bridle. Many boaters knot the tow bridle into a loop at the center, and attach a towing line there. This is wrong. The towing line should not be fixed to the bridle, but instead should end in a small bowline loop, through which the bridle passes. This allows the towline to slew back and forth in the bridle, and provides for tension on both sides of the bridle. Not rigging the towline this way is the most common cause of failure of the pad eyes on the dingy to which the tow bridle is attached. It is inevitable that during towing, the dingy will rock a little from side to side, shifting the strain on the bridle from one side to the other. If the towline is rigidly fixed to the center of the bridle, one pad eye will be momentarily required to sustain the entire tow load. If the towline can shift its position in the bridle, both sides of the bridle will remain in tension, and the load will be distributed to both pad eyes on the dingy.

Many cruising sailors have small outboard motors for use with their inflatables, which creates a dilemma when it's time to tow: should the motor be left on the dingy while towing? The tendency to do this is proportional to the weight of the outboard and the difficulty in removing it and storing it on the boat. There are a number of reasons for recommending against towing with the outboard on the dingy.

First, there is the hazard to the outboard. In large seas the dingy might flip over, submerging the motor. It's also possible that violent motion in the seaway could cause the motor to fall off the dingy transom. These things always seem to happen when you'd least expect them to, usually when a ten-foot sea is running!

Another consideration is the additional tow load the extra weight of the motor will create. A completely empty inflatable is usually a very light craft and hence a very light tow load. When you add 70 pounds or more of motor and gas tank, you could very well be doubling the tow load from a small inflatable.

The problem most likely to occur in towing the dingy is shipping water aboard. It can quickly lead to failure of the bridle pad eyes, especially in those instances where the load is not being equalized. Even just six inches of water in an inflatable can weight hundreds of pounds.

ANSWER:

While transporting inflatable boats on a trailer with the outboard motor in a raised position, heavy outboard engines may provide extra strain on a boat's transom. When a moving trailer hits a bump or uneven pavement, heavy motors are capable of damaging the transom. You can install a pole support from the end of the trailer to the end of the outboard motor in order to provide extra support for the motor's weight. These supports are available at places that sell trailers for boats and/or on-line.

ANSWER:

You will need to use a hand pump to provide proper air pressure to the tubes if you are using low pressure electric pump. Inexpensive electric pumps sold for $20-$50 in retail stores will not provide enough air pressure, and your boat will not operate to it's full performance. You may quickly inflate all air compartments with low pressure inexpensive electric pump, up to the point where no more air can be electrically pumped inside, or about 80-90%. Then, you will need to use a hand pump until the tubes, keel and bow are hard to the touch. To completely inflate boat or kayak or raft or any other inflatables to the recommended air pressure without use of hand pump, you will need a special High-Pressure Electric pump sold in our Accessories section.

ANSWER:

Saturn Inflatable boats are made of the same quality materials as famous expensive brand name inflatable boats. The workmanship is exactly the same or even better quality then most overpriced brand names that you can buy in retail marine stores.

Some of Saturn boats strong points:

• Very clean, hand-made seams. Glue does not stick out from seams.
• Double layer fabric at the bottom of all tubes .
• The Extra thick 1100 Dtex fabric with polyester support is a much thicker fabric than some other famous brands use.
• Flat and rigid air floor. Not bended in front like on most other brands.
• Safety valve that prevents over-inflation.

There are several reasons why our prices are the lowest in the US:

• We import directly from the manufacturer bypassing the middleman.
• By conducting our business on-line we avoid expenses that retail stores are passing on to their customers.
• We do not invest as heavily in marketing as other famous brands do.
• We don't have to maintain a large network of dealers and retail stores.
• Our 2 year warranty doesn't force you to pay for extra years that otherwise are just built-in into the retail price.

Many of our customers are boaters that have experience with other brand names such as Zodiac, Avon, West Marine, etc. However, after purchasing Saturn boats, we hear many comments stating that our boats are the same or better quality as these other major brands. The most common remark is, " Saturn boats are much better quality then expected" and 50% of our sales come from the referrals of happy owners of Saturn inflatable boats.

ANSWER:

Short shaft 15" outboard motors are recommended to be installed on all Saturn inflatable boats and KaBoats.

The lighter the outboard motor - the better. Either 2-stroke or 4-stroke engines may be installed on a boat transom, however 2-stroke engines are generally much lighter then 4-stroke outboard motors.

Long shaft 20" motors are not recommended, but may also be installed if a short shaft o/b is unavailable. However a long shaft o/b may create extra underwater drag. Long shaft o/b may be raised a few inches with the help of a 2-3" wooden bar placed on top of the boat's transom.

Max O/B motor, as per technical specifications for Saturn inflatable boats , means that this particular HP power output motor will bring the boat on plane when the maximum persons capacity is reached. For example, the SD365 can take up to a 30 HP outboard motor, but a 9HP or 15 HP motor will move this boat very nicely with 2-3 people on board. However, to put the boat on plane with a full load of 5 people and gear, a 30 HP motor may be required.

ANSWER:

Manufacturer Identification Codes (MIC) were assigned by the US Coast Guard on May 6, 2003. Our boats have been CE, ISO and Germanischer Lloyd Certified in Europe, Asia and Australia. The NMMA certification is expensive and optional, therefore we did not applied for such a certification in order to keep our expenses/prices as low as possible.

ANSWER:

Inflation valve has a spring loaded pushpin inside. This pushpin can lock into two positions; up or down. When pushpin pressed into down position, air will escape. If you turn the pushpin in any direction it will pop up into upper position. This will lock air inside and prevent it from escaping through the valve. Before inserting the air pump valve adapter into the valve, make sure that the pushpin is in the upper, popped up position. Once the pin is in the "popped up" position, insert the air pump valve adapter into the valve, rotate it clockwise to latch to crest inside valve, and inflate air chamber until it becomes as hard as rock. Should be no wrinkles visible. Once you disconnect the air pump valve adapter by rotating counter clockwise, pushpin will seal the valve, and air will no longer escape. If you would like to deflate the boat later on, press down on the pushpin and turn it in any direction until it stays in the pressed down position. Air will immediately escape from the tubes through unlocked valve.

ANSWER:

Please go to the valve assembly page to see how a damaged or defective valve can be replaced. Replacement valves and tools for their replacement can be ordered at https://www.BoatsToGo.com/valves.asp.

Top part of the valve can be simply unscrewed for cleaning or replacement. New valve can be screwed in place of old one. In most cases, simply cleaning rubber seal inside the valve will fix slow leak that may develop over time due to the grime and residue collection on top of that seal.

ANSWER:

Under normal conditions, you typically only need about 80% of the boat’s maximum rated outboard power—and with a light load (half of the maximum persons or weight capacity), even less. For example, the SD365 is rated for up to a 30 HP motor, but a 15 HP outboard with a hydrofoil can be enough to get a 12' boat on plane with 1–4 people and minimal gear.

Keep in mind, lighter motors help the boat plane faster. Two-stroke engines are generally lighter than four-strokes and put less stress on the transom while delivering the same power. The maximum outboard rating refers to the highest horsepower that can be safely used when the boat is fully loaded under normal water conditions. Always use common sense—avoid aggressive wave jumping, especially with heavier 4-stroke motors, to protect the transom and overall structure of the boat.

ANSWER:

These are the steps you should follow to correctly inflate the boat:

Steps for assembly inflatable boat with an air floor:

1. Inflate all tubes to approximately 75% full.
2. Insert boat seats in designated spots.
3. Place deflated air floor inside the boat. The gray plywood board should be facing the keel. Make sure that the valve of the keel is accessible through the hole in the air floor. You will need it later to inflate the keel through this hole.
4. Place both ends of plywood boards under the left and right sides of tubes.
5. Stretch the air floor along the boats bottom, so it covers it from nose to transom. The rear end of the air floor should be touching the transom.
6. Inflate the air floor until it's hard. You will know that the floor is fully inflated when the air pressure starts pushing the air pump handle up.
7. Inflate all tubes 100% until hard to touch.
8. Inflate the keel through the hole in air floor.
9. Please see this FAQ about importance of proper inflation of boat tubes and keel.

Steps for assembly inflatable boat with plywood floor. Click image to zoom in:

ANSWER:

An air pressure gauge is not required for inflation of Saturn inflatable watercraft under normal operating conditions. Proper inflation can be determined by tactile and visual inspection: when tubes and air floors become firm to the touch, exhibit a smooth surface, and no visible wrinkles remain, the structure has typically reached adequate pressure for use.

When using high-pressure electric pumps, it is recommended to follow defined pressure limits to prevent over-inflation and potential structural damage.

Helpful conversion factors for reference:

• 1 psi = 0.06895 bar
• 1 bar = 14.50326 psi
• 1 kPa = 0.145 psi

Certain models may include a pressure relief (safety) valve. Proper function of this valve depends on uniform inflation across all air chambers. Due to the internal design, chambers are separated by conical baffles that allow pressure equalization between compartments. If one or more chambers—particularly those not directly connected to the relief valve—are underinflated, pressure distribution may be uneven, and the valve may not operate as intended.

It is important to note that the safety valve is not designed to regulate pressure during initial inflation or prevent over-inflation. Its primary function is to release excess internal pressure caused by environmental factors such as thermal expansion under direct sunlight or altitude changes after inflation.

Here are additional technical and practical guidelines for inflating inflatable boats with a hand pump when no pressure gauge is used:

1. Inflation sequence matters

• Inflate main tubes first to ~70–80% firmness
• Inflate the air floor (if drop-stitch) next
• Top off all chambers to final firmness at the end This helps maintain proper hull shape and even pressure distribution.

2. Use dual-action pump efficiently

• Start with double-action mode (air on both up/down strokes) for fast volume fill
• Switch to single-action mode when resistance increases to reach higher pressure more easily

3. Visual and tactile pressure indicators

• Tubes should feel firm but still have minimal give when pressed with thumb
• Air floor (drop-stitch) should feel very rigid, almost like a solid board
• Surface should be smooth, without wrinkles or sagging areas
• Boat should hold its shape without flexing when lifted slightly

4. Temperature considerations

• Inflate slightly softer in cool morning conditions if boat will be exposed to strong sun later
• Air expands with heat; overinflation in cool conditions can lead to excessive pressure mid-day
• Avoid inflating to maximum firmness in direct sunlight

5. Symmetry check

• Ensure both sides (port/starboard) feel equally firm
• Uneven pressure can affect tracking, stability, and stress seams

6. Valve check

• Confirm valve pin is in the correct (closed/up) position before removing pump hose
• After inflation, quickly cap valves to minimize air loss

7. Pumping technique

• Use steady, full strokes rather than short rapid strokes for efficiency
• Keep pump vertical and stable to avoid air leaks at hose connection
• Use body weight on downstroke to reduce fatigue

8. Avoid overexertion errors

• As resistance increases, it becomes harder to add pressure—this is normal
• Do not force excessive pressure once the structure is already firm; that usually indicates you are near proper range

9. Recheck after a few minutes

• Air pressure may stabilize after initial inflation as material stretches slightly
• Top off lightly if needed after 5–10 minutes

10. On-water recheck

• After launching, recheck firmness once boat is in water (cooling effect may slightly reduce pressure)

11. Storage and deflation note

• Do not leave fully inflated boat under high heat for extended periods without monitoring
• Slight pressure release may be needed in extreme heat conditions

These practices help achieve safe and consistent inflation even without a gauge, while minimizing risk of under- or over-inflation.

ANSWER:

If you are planning to keep your inflated dinghy in water or by the dock for extended periods of time, here is a simple scheme that you may follow. Gray PVC 1/2" electric pipes can be used as pole supports. PVC pipes are available in local hardware stores and Home Depot. They provide enough tension to keep the dingy from rubbing against the dock. However keep in mind that prolonged exposure to open water will cause extensive algae and barnacle growth on the bottom part of the boat.

ANSWER:

Here is a web page with a FREE instructions for how to make Deluxe Soft Cushion that will go over your boat plywood or aluminum bench. This is complimentary instructions for DIY project provided as-is as a gift to our customers. We will not be able to provide any other information besides already provided on that page.

ANSWER:

You will need 8-9 inch long pieces of 2" diameter white plumbing PVC pipe and a piece of thick rope. Drill holes at the end of each pipe and run the rope from one hole to another.

Make 2 knots where the rope exits the holes in the pipe, to make sure that the pipe will stay in place and will not slide when boarding the boat.

Make knots along the rope to assist with pulling yourself out of the water. Attach rope to the grab line, or any other place that can support heavy weight and throw the other end of the rope across the boat into the water, so that it is 20" below water line.

When boarding, insert one foot inside the loop with the pipe and grab the rope with both hands. Pull your body inside the boat, by using knots on the rope to help you up.

ANSWER:

Please see below for proper loading of the inflatable boat:

ANSWER:

If the Bill Of Sale is missing from the shipping pouch or you need replacement documents, you can download the necessary paperwork by clicking on the Downloads link.

ANSWER:

Please follow these steps to correct positioning of the keel.

1. Deflate boat tubes.

2. Deflate and remove air floor.

3. Inflate keel and then deflate it while spreading it out evenly on both sides.

4. Insert air floor back and inflate boat tubes 100%.

5. Inflate air floor, then inflate keel.

ANSWER:

Understanding and Preventing Cavitation in Inflatable Boats

Cavitation is a common issue that affects inflatable boats, often leading to reduced performance, engine over-revving, and possible damage to your propeller. This guide explains what cavitation is, the main reasons it happens, and how to choose and troubleshoot the correct propeller pitch to keep your boat running smoothly.

What is Cavitation?

Cavitation occurs when vapor bubbles form in the water around the propeller blades due to low-pressure zones. As the boat moves, these bubbles collapse, causing shock waves that reduce thrust, increase engine RPM, and may physically erode or “burn” the propeller surface.

It’s important to distinguish cavitation from ventilation, which is when surface air or exhaust gases get sucked into the propeller, causing a loss of load and over-revving. Cavitation is more related to water pressure and propeller efficiency.

Main Causes of Cavitation in Inflatable Boats

1. Incorrect Propeller Pitch

A propeller with the wrong pitch, size, or damaged blades cannot efficiently push water. An incorrect pitch, in particular, leads to low pressure on the blades causing cavitation—even if your boat is fully inflated. Damaged blades with rough edges also disrupt smooth water flow, promoting bubble formation and erosion. Regular inspection and correct prop selection are key. Please see more at Google by searching "can incorrect propeller pitch cause outboard cavitation in inflatable boat": "incorrect propeller pitch can contribute to cavitation in an inflatable boat's outboard motor. If the pitch is too high for the boat's weight and engine, the propeller can lose its bite, leading to aeration and cavitation. A propeller with too little pitch might not provide enough bite, particularly at higher speeds, also leading to cavitation. "

2. Improper Boat Inflation

If the inflatable boat’s chambers are underinflated, the hull shape distorts, creating turbulence under the tubes. This turbulent water disturbs the flow around the propeller, causing cavitation. Always fully inflate your boat using a hand pump, ensuring each chamber feels firm and hard to the touch.

3. Debris on Propeller or Skeg

Seaweed, fishing line, plastic, or other debris caught on the propeller or skeg disrupt water flow, leading to cavitation. Before use, shift the engine into neutral, ensure the propeller is stopped, and remove any obstructions carefully.

Understanding Propeller Pitch

Propeller pitch refers to how far a propeller would move in one full rotation if it were moving through a solid medium. Choosing the right pitch is vital: too high, and your engine struggles to reach optimal RPM; too low, and your engine over-revs, both scenarios causing cavitation and poor performance.

Propeller Pitch Selection Chart for Inflatable Boats

How important to have correct prop pitch? See this customer having 2 different props for different purposes in this YouTube video.

Propeller Pitch Diagnostic Table

Tips to Prevent Cavitation

• Always fully inflate your inflatable boat with a hand pump until chambers feel firm and hard.

• Choose the correct propeller pitch based on your boat’s size, load, and engine power.

• Inspect your propeller regularly for damage and remove any debris before operating.

• Avoid operating in very shallow or debris-filled waters that can damage the prop.

• If performance issues arise, use the diagnostic table to assess if the pitch is correct or if other factors like ventilation or debris might be the cause.

By following these guidelines, you’ll help your inflatable boat perform at its best, avoid cavitation-related damage, and extend the life of your motor and propeller.

Customer's video about prop pitch difference

The most recent response from a customer who fixed cavitation by properly inflating his SD365 boat was: "Thanks, I did what you said and went out in the ocean today and my boat ran great, really moves with this Honda 20hp outboard."

Here is email from customer, who complained about cavitation issue, that was fully resolved after prop pitch changed:

"Oh happy day!!!! Took the boat out with the new propeller 8 pitch and the boat cruised along like a champ, you may want to let people know it they are at high altitude lakes the pitch of your propeller should be at the lowest level available for your motor type. I'm so happy my boat works, can't wait to go again!! Thanks for all your help with my issue."

Here is another email from different customer who was sure that he has fully inflated all chambers:

"I gave my SD385 a good workout today with my new Yamaha 9.9 and it was fantastic !   Initially I thought I had a problem with cavitation.  I had inflated everything to what I thought was good but read in FAQ about cavitation so I hand pumped everything until it stopped or strongly resisted.  I couldn't believe that amount of inflation would make that much of a difference but man did it.  After that no cavitation and it handled like a sports car. Thanks !  -Sincerely, John F."

ANSWER:

You can apply a non-slip stair tread tape which is manufactured by 3M. It is very durable and is water resistant as well. It is available in most hardware stores. It is made to be used on stairs but also works well on boat seats to keep you from slipping into turns when a boat is in motion. It makes the seats non-slip!

ANSWER:

If you notice water accumulating inside your inflatable boat, there is usually no reason for concern. In most cases, the source is simple to identify and correct.

There are three main ways water can appear or enter inside an inflatable boat:

1. Rainwater or Water Already Inside the Boat

If the boat was left uncovered overnight or exposed to rain, water may have accumulated inside without being immediately noticeable.

When the boat gets on plane, gravity causes this water to move toward the rear of the boat and collect near the transom. This can make it appear that water is suddenly entering the boat while underway, when it was actually already inside.

To remove accumulated water, open one of the drain valves while the boat is moving at speed. Water should be pushed out through the drain. Once the water has drained, slow down or stop and close the drain plug.

2. Water Entering Through a Drain Valve

The most common place for outside water to enter an inflatable boat is through a one-way drain valve. There are several possible reasons, and the fixes are generally quick and easy.

A. Drain plug is not fully inserted

Make sure the drain plug is pushed completely into place. Inspect the plug and opening for sand, dirt, or other debris that could prevent a proper seal.

B. One-way rubber seal is dirty

The black rubber seal inside the valve prevents water from entering while still allowing water to drain from the boat.

Gently pull the rubber seal with your finger and inspect underneath it. Sand or other debris can become trapped between the rubber seal and plastic housing, preventing the valve from closing completely.

Remove any debris and carefully wipe the rubber seal clean. A small amount of acetone can be used for cleaning if necessary.

C. Rubber seal is damaged or not sealing properly

Inspect the black one-way rubber seal. It should sit flat and completely cover the drain opening.

If the seal is distorted, damaged, or defective, it may allow water to slowly enter the boat and should be replaced. If the boat is under warranty, please contact us for assistance with a replacement part.

Replacement drain valves are also widely available online. Search for "inflatable boat drain valve" on Amazon or eBay.

D. Drain valve assembly is loose or not properly sealed

Check the screws securing the drain valve assembly and carefully tighten them if necessary. Do not overtighten the screws, as excessive force could crack the plastic housing.

If water appears to be entering around the outside of the drain valve assembly rather than through the valve itself, apply clear exterior-grade window/door silicone sealant around the perimeter of the drain assembly.

Replacement drain plug assemblies are also available from us upon request or can be purchased on Amazon, etc.

3. Possible Small Opening Around the Transom or Floor Seam

If you have ruled out accumulated rainwater and the drain valves, there is a small possibility of a minor opening in the seam where the floor, transom, and tubes are joined.

This is much less common than a drain valve issue, but it is easy to test and, if found, usually straightforward to repair.

To test for a possible seam opening:

1. Remove the boat completely from the water.
2. Dry the outside of the transom and surrounding seam areas.
3. Raise the bow slightly so water will collect toward the rear of the boat.
4. Pour some water into the rear interior of the boat using a bucket or garden hose.
5. Inspect the outside along the bottom edge of the transom and the areas where the transom connects to the tubes and floor.
6. Look for any water slowly dripping from a specific location.

If you see water dripping through a seam, take clear pictures or a short video showing the exact location and contact us. We can provide instructions for sealing the area.

We recommend checking the drain valves first, since they are the most common source of water entering an inflatable boat. In most cases, the problem is simply debris under the rubber seal, an improperly seated drain plug, or a drain assembly that needs minor adjustment or sealing.

Once an inflatable boat is in the water, it is normal for a small amount of water to accumulate inside. Water can enter from rain, waves, splashing, swimmers getting in and out, or backsplash from the outboard motor. It is generally unrealistic to expect a boat being used on the water to remain 100% dry at all times.

To remove small amounts of accumulated water, there are several inexpensive options available on Amazon, eBay, and marine supply stores, including manual bilge pumps, battery-operated bilge pumps, absorbent towels or fabrics, and marine water-absorbing sponges. Here is link for manual bilge pumps at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hand+bilge+pump

ANSWER:

Put a regular cooler between the seat and air or plywood floor to create extra support for the plywood seat. The cooler has to fit under the seat. There are IGLOO or Coleman coolers available in department stores that are just the right size. Coolers can also serve as dry storage containers. When a boat is jumping on waves, coolers will prevent excessive pressure on the strips that hold the plywood seat attached to the tubes. For example, a Coleman 9 Qt. Excursion, Red cooler, dimensions 11.25" x 12.66" x 9.75", Vendor Part Number: 6209A703G, around $15.

ANSWER:

One of our customers cut 4' opening in a boat tubes when he run over sharp rock. Here is a quote from customer's email:

"Below is not a very good photo, but it may serve to remind you of the 4 foot gash I had on the port chamber of my 14-foot Saturn. Since this was taken, I have put on the big motor and been bopping all around the huge bay of Culebra, PR. She runs like new!!! I can hardly believe it.

Most boat people here never thought the gash could be fixed. What you see here is only the top part. As you get further under the chamber, the tear continues for another 2 feet toward the stern. I had a local guy here stitch first from the inside, then from the outside. He began layering the patches, using 5200 Sealant. It still leaked after that, but only thru small pinholes. It was then I I found at Inland Marine an expensive liquid adhesive that gets applied from INSIDE the chamber. Then the boat gets rocked back and forth to spread the glue evenly. I gave it 2 "coatings" on 2 separate days. Then I went all around the perimeter (edges) of the patch again with a fresh application of 5200. And voila, it sealed perfectly, not the slightest leak.

For 5 days now I've been using the boat, and there's no sign of leakage, nor of the patch peeling back. Am I a lucky son of a gun, or what!!! The Saturn has proven to be so resilient. It just wants to please me. I'm very grateful for your extra PVC fabric AND SUPPORT! One day I will visit you in FL to shake your hands. Meantime, the Saturn name has gotten a lot of positive attention here on Culebra! Very best wishes." Mark

ANSWER:

Regular Jet Ski trailer will work great for almost any inflatable boat. You can find used Jet Ski trailers at Craigslist.com, or look up in local classifieds. Harbor Freight Tools or Northern Tool offers inexpensive foldable utility trailers that can be converted for use with inflatable boats. Just search for word "trailer" and then sort by price. Or, visit local store to purchase. Please see bellow excellent video of trailer setup submitted by one of our customers. Also, see this Blog post about custom trailer by one of our customers. Here is also nice article from our customer about his trailer set up and various tips and tricks.

ANSWER:

These DIY instructions are submitted by our customer:

The material used is inexpensive "1" size PVC plumbing tube. It is available at any home center or hardware. Mine was a scrap from another project. The work done is simple filing, or hand cutting, 6 little grooves into the end. That particular PVC pipe fits very closely into the NARU valve circular opening, after a little sanding is done. After proper filing of the 6 little grooves, and the sanding to fit the circular opening, it will fit over the 6 NARU valve structural parts, and allow a safe removal of the internal valve component by turning it counter-clockwise...Re-Assembly is obviously the reverse. This tool works exactly like a specialized SOCKET TOOL for mechanical work. I felt PLASTIC to be more compatible with the plastic valve, thus preventing potential breakage or cutting of the plastic valve components.

ANSWER:

Install rectangular aluminum tubing in between 2 seat benches. This will create rigid aluminum frame and will prevent benches to rolling backward when resting against back support of chair. Use wingnuts to make assembly/dissasembly quicker. Then drill holes in benches to match holes on bottom of foldable chairs. You can bolt chairs directly to benches, or install swivel platform with quick release mount to make chairs rotate and quickly disconnect from benches.

ANSWER:

One of the easiest methods of attaching registration numbers to side of inflatable dinghy; is to affix registration sticker and numbers on rectangular plastic board, such as cut from FOR SALE sign for example. Drill or cut holes in corners of that board, and hang it over the side of the inflatable boat, as near to the bow as possible. Use plastic cable ties to attach board to safety grab rope. USCG regulations state that the vessels registration numbers must be visible at all time (not permanently attached). Another option is to use stencil, old in Home Depot or Office Max, along with permanent black marker to print registration number through stencil. Most elegant option is to order registration numbers to be printed by www.BoatNumberPlate.com

ANSWER:

Ensuring optimal performance and safety of inflatable boats requires precise inflation of both boat tubes and keel. The recommended air pressure for boat tubes is 25 kPa, while the keel should be inflated to 30 kPa. These components are engineered to function synergistically, providing lateral support for the hard floor within the boat's hull.

Proper inflation is indicated by a firm, rock-like feel to both the tubes and keel. Any sagging or wrinkling along the sides of the tubes, or a soft texture to the touch, indicates inadequate inflation. When the keel is not fully inflated or the tubes lack sufficient firmness, the weight of the tubes places undue stress on the floorboards, particularly during navigation through waves, choppy waters, or acceleration.

The floorboards themselves are not designed to bear the substantial weight of the tubes and passengers, which can collectively amount to hundreds of pounds. Rather, they are intended to complement the boat hull and keel system. A fully inflated keel maintains a flat floor surface, minimizing stress on the side rails and floorboard stringers. Additionally, the inflated tubes exert pressure on the floorboards through the side stringers, ensuring alignment. Insufficient inflation of the keel results in inadequate support for the floorboards, leading to excessive stress on the side rails and potential cracking or damage to the floorboards.

Video discussing proper inflation steps for hard floor inflatable boat.

It is imperative to note that improper inflation, leading to damage to the floorboards, will void the warranty. Underinflation of the boat tubes can cause the stringers to shift from their position over the side rails, further compromising support for the floorboards and increasing the risk of cracks or bends in the side rails.

In addition, it is important to properly position the stringers inside the boat so that the joint line between the two rear adjacent floorboards, which bears the most weight, is fully covered on both sides by the side stringers. Also, make sure that once the stringers are installed, the joint lines between adjacent floorboards are covered evenly on both sides by the stringers. The side stringers provide structural support and help prevent the floorboards from flexing at the joints. Please see the example below showing the suggested correction for improperly installed stringers:

ANSWER:

At the time when boats are assembled back at the factory, bottom of each boat get stitched to strip of PVC that is then glued to inner sides of tubes. After that stitching is cut, and bottom of boat remains inside boat, between tubes. Absolutely all inflatable boats, kayaks and rafts has this type of stitching. That is the way inflatable products manufactured back at the factory, and this is not some kind of defect or issue. Cut stitching suppose to be there, and it covered by air floor one installed inside the boat.

ANSWER:

Please see below video from one of our customers for some tips and ides:

ANSWER:

We accept pre orders for products available on incoming containers once we know approximate ETA (estimated time of arrival) on that container. That means that item not yet available, but it is inside container that was shipped out recently. ETA means Estimated Time of Arrival of container into US Port. Usually, it either Tacoma or Miami. Once container is in a port, it will take few days to unload from ship and deliver to warehouse. It will also take 1-3 days to unload container into warehouse box by box, and update into computer system. Once it done, then we can ship.

ETA date provided by shipping company and is estimated. That means that delays are possible in case of port congestion, or unloading delays, etc.

IMPORTANT: Please note that we have no control over shipments until container delivered, unloaded into warehouse and entered into computer system. However, once items become available, we trying to ship all pre orders ASAP, usually same or next day. It is in our best interested to ship out as soon as possible, in order to clear up warehouse space.

Pre Order means that we reserved product for you, and it will be guaranteed once container is received. Credit card on pre order will be charged day or two before we are ready to ship products. We do not reconfirm orders before processing cards.

Orders can be canceled and deleted before container is received. If additional items were ordered along with main item on pre order, then we will ship additional items after we receive main item on pre order.

To check most recent updates on Pre Order please click here.

ANSWER:

BoatsToGo, Inc operating BoatsToGo.com web site is a manufacturer and trademark owner of SATURN Boats, Rafts and Kayaks. We are manufacturer of all Saturn boats, rafts, kayaks and paddle boards.

Canyon Rafts, operating web sites SaturnBoats.com and SaturnRafts.com is one of our authorized dealers in Idaho, and listed at https://www.boatstogo.com/dealers.asp

Canyon Rafts orders from us one of exclusive SATURN variations they call SATURN TRITON. That particular SATURN TRITON variation has C7 brand valves and heat welded seams. That way Canyon Rafts can stand up from our offering, and utilize different price structure. Therefore BoatsToGo.com does NOT sell SATURN TRITON inflatables.

While most of SATURN boats sold by BoatsToGo.com now also come with heat welded seams, we do not use C7 brand valves, so that to allow Canyon Rafts to stand up from our offerings.

What is difference between C7 valves and Saturn valves? Valves used in inflatables that are sold by BoatsToGo.com have exactly same pushpin design as UK manufactured C7 valves. However difference is in a valve cap shape, and method of attachment hose to the valve. Both, SATURN boats sold by BoatsToGo.com and SATURN TRITON variation sold by SaturnRafts.com/SaturnBoats.com are made by same factories, using same materials.

ANSWER:

If inflatable boat full of water after heavy rains, open drain valve cap, and let boat sit for 30 minutes. Most of water will escape boat from one way drain valve due to tubes air buoyancy. If there is some water in a boat, open drain valve cap, hang it over transom to prevent it loss, and go at high speed. Most of water will be pushed out of one way drain valve under G-force. Then stop, and re install cap back into drain valve. Remaining water can be absorbed with towel or sponge.

ANSWER:

Optional plywood board might be provided separate from air deck floor. It need to be inserted into 2 straps on a bottom of air deck floor, before floor is inflated. Purpose of that optional plywood board is to keep floor more flat in a bow area, where keel may create some bump, pushing into air floor. Install plywood board into air floor, then place deflated air floor inside partially inflated boat. Spread air deck floor in such way that round opening matches valve in a boat keel, and rear of floor touches transom board. Then fully inflate boat tubes, fully inflate air deck floor, and as a last step, fully inflate keel. Do not try to install floor into fully inflated boat. Boat must be partially deflated to install air floor with plywood board.

Important: (1) Make sure that keel inflated AFTER air deck floor inflated to high pressure, not before. (2) Make sure that air deck is fully inflated to at least 60-80KPA. If air floor is not fully inflated, or inflated after keel was inflated first, that may result in plywood board breaking, and possible damage to air floor. That will not be covered by warranty. Fully inflated air floor provide support for plywood board, to prevent it from breaking. If floor not fully inflated, plywood board may break over inflatable keel.

ANSWER:

Please read more about oarlock repairs in this article.

ANSWER:

Most of inflatable vessels have multiple air chambers. If one of chambers is punctured, inflatable vessel can still stay afloat, to allow slow return back to safety. It is good idea to have self adhesive patch, such as Gorilla tape for example or Flex tape, and hand pump, just in case if hole need to be patched up while on a water. If boat does get punctured, do not panic. Put life jackets on, move heavy loads away from punctured chamber, apply tape if possible to slow down leak, and start return trip back to safety. Here is video of inflatable KaBoat getting punctured during shark fishing in an open ocean. As you can see not only KaBoat managed to safely return back in rough sea, but also haul shark behind.

Customer's video (skip to 5:15 for puncture)

ANSWER:

How do Saturn boats compare to their competitors?

There are many inflatable boat brands and manufacturers. Saturn is one of the best because of our over 20 years of experience in inflatable boat innovations, design, and manufacturing since 1999.

Here are some of the strong points of Saturn's inflatables:

1. All Saturn boats are currently made from German Heytex PVC for premium durability and resistance to the elements.

2. Most Saturn boat hulls are manufactured with heat welding seams technology, ensuring long-term air tightness in hot and humid conditions.

3. Those parts that are glued use German-made Henkel Loctite and BASF glue mix technology for superior adhesive and durability.

4. Boat transoms are covered with fiberglass layers, offering much more durability and adhesion than wooden transoms used elsewhere. The glue bond between fiberglass and PVC is much stronger than the bond between PVC and raw wood. Fiberglass layers also protect the transoms from rotting over time.

5. Saturn offers a warranty of up to 5 years, the same as the leading manufacturers of other inflatable boat brands.

6. By selling directly to customers and bypassing dealership chains, Saturn can offer the lowest prices for inflatables in the United States.

Let's compare Saturn to other brands of PVC inflatable boats. Keep in mind that there are numerous manufacturers of high-end Hypalon inflatable boats and RIBs, which are in a completely different product niche and price category than Saturn. Several major PVC inflatable boat sellers are similar to Saturn, and some smaller brands that sell primarily on Amazon.

1. Zodiac is the company that invented this type of product, making the name Zodiac synonymous with inflatable boats. In addition to high-end Hypalon and RIB boats, Zodiac offers premium-quality PVC inflatable dinghies, but at a hefty price. Some of Zodiac's least expensive PVC boats are made in China these days, and we ordered from the same factory some time ago. Knowing the manufacturer, we can confirm that the quality of these boats is not superior to that of Saturn, and while the brand name does carry an extra price surcharge, if you want to save money while getting similar quality to Zodiac's PVC boats, Saturn is a good option, offering better savings.

2. Mercury: premium quality, higher prices. Mercury inflatable PVC boats have comparable quality and durability to Saturn's. With the same heat-welded seams and meticulous attention to detail, but, Saturn offers fiberglass-covered transoms, lower prices, and a much wider variety of boats.

3. Sea Eagle: premium quality boats that have been in business longer than Saturn are a pioneer of mail-in inflatable boat orders, and serves as a role model for Saturn. But, again, prices are much higher than Saturn. Perhaps because shipping costs are included in boat prices, there is a large marketing budget, and a large affiliate network, the price of overhead products is essentially comparable to that of Saturn in terms of quality and workmanship. In the end, someone has to pay for marketing expenses, and since there is no magic involved, that will be the customer. Sea Eagle's strong points include free shipping, a lengthy trial period, and free returns.

4. Intex and Sevylor: These companies specialize in "toy" boats made of thin 0.5 mm PVC. While they are significantly less expensive than Saturn, comparing the two is like comparing apples to oranges. They are completely different segments of the inflatable boat market.

5. Takacat: good quality boats, made in China, unique design with removable transom, but, again, overpriced. Takacat primarily manufactures catamaran-style inflatable vessels, which are not particularly novel. Saturn offers similar types of catamaran inflatable boats at prices half of Takacat. They use the same heat-welded seam technology. The difference is the shape of the air deck floor, tube rotation, and removable transom. If you're willing to pay twice as much for it, it might be worse.

6. BRIS Inflatable Boats: These boats are made in China and are mostly sold through Amazon and eBay. Amazon lists the seller of BRIS boats as "benflyworlds", and the Detailed Seller Information shows the business name as an individual by the name of Haibo Luan, located at #10, Zhifu Dist. Yantai Shandong China. BRIS did not hesitate to copy the design of our KaBoat boats. It is also unclear how the company will handle the warranty outside of China. However, one of the benefits of purchasing from Amazon is the extremely simple return process, you can Just use the boat for 20-30 days, then declare it defective, and voila, Amazon will give you a free return label to send the boat back, almost like a rental service. If you need a boat only for a few weeks on vacation, then maybe that is the way to go. Another detail is that BRIS boats have plastic handles that are glued to the outside of the boat tubes. Plastic handles not only tend to unglue after a few years, which is why Saturn does not use them as of ten years, but how are two people supposed to carry the boat if there are no handles inside the rear tubes? Instead of 2 people to carry the boat, you need 3 which I'm not sure is wise.

7. Newport Vessels: A company selling out of California. Mostly specializing in a wide range of high-quality electric trolling motors. They also have a line of inflatable boats with plywood and air floors. But, again, why are prices so high? Almost $1500 for a 10' boat with a plywood floor! Quality-wise, these boats do not look any better than Saturn.

Let us know which other brands you want us to compare with Saturn, and we will add them to the above list.

Conclusion: There are many good brands of inflatable boats, but we at Saturn are convinced that our boats are comparable to or better than those of our competitors. That is why, in our clearance section, you would rarely see any of the returned boats sold out because there are none.

ANSWER:

Because inflatable vessels are made from PVC fabric, it is normal to see creases, imprints and fold lines on a brand new item, right out of the box. As any other fabric, PVC fabric can get crease marks after being tightly folded inside shipping box for period of time. Creases, imprints and fold marks are normal, and will fade away over time, after inflatable chambers are fully inflated as hard as rock. Warm weather helps to dissipate fold lines faster.

What you see is a normal crease and fold lines on a surface of a product that was tightly packed and folded inside shipping box for some period of time. Some harder object could press into soft fabric creating imprints or marks. Crease is a line, mark, or ridge made by or as if by folding or pressing a pliable substance, such as fabric. It is normal, and might appear on all brand new inflatables fabric, soft tracking pads and rub strake surfaces. Fold line and creases will dissipate with time, after inflatable vessel chambers are inflated to the full air pressure for period of time. Warm air, and air pressure inside chamber, can help creases to dissipate faster. Inflatable vessels are made from PVC fabric and therefore creases are normal. It is not a defect or cosmetic issue.

ANSWER:

Do not break your back by hauling heavy boat around. Use wheels. When boat deflated, use folding hand cart, sold on Amazon starting at $29. Or, use moving dolly, sold in Home Depot, starting at $19. It is much easier to move folded boat inside carry bag using hand cart, than dragging heavy bag using handles. No need for 2nd person to help you. 

When boat is inflated, you can either place hand cart under boat transom, to push it that way. Or, purchase optional dinghy wheels that can be attached to boat transom. That makes moving fully inflated boat much easier. Just grab handle in front, and pull boat where it need to go. Easy.

If you need to lift heavy boat into the car, we suggest removing of air floor, as it makes lifting boat much easier. Floor does have some weight to it. It can be stored separately, and installed into boat when ready to assemble. If you need to push heavy boat bag into back of minivan or SUV, consider making simple DIY roller platform, with few PVC plumbing tubes rolling over smaller diameter tubes. That all can be mounted on a rectangular piece of plywood, and placed into the car before pushing heavy bag over it.

ANSWER:

Since 2024, some Saturn inflatable boats, rafts, kayaks, and SUPs come with new universal bases for rod holders and other accessories already installed at the factory. These bases work with the two most popular brands: Scotty and Railblaza.

The lower patch, which is glued to the boat, fits most Scotty accessories and many generic ones. The upper piece attaches with four bolts and fits most Railblaza accessories. This lets customers choose which system they prefer.

If you remove the top piece, you can use Scotty rod holders, cup holders, fish finder mounts, and more. If you keep the top piece on, you can use Railblaza rod holders and other attachments. You can also bolt on a track adapter to the glued-on patch, allowing you to use many accessories made for kayak gear tracks.

Scotty and Railblaza accessories can be easily found on Amazon or at outdoor stores like Bass Pro Shops and kayak shops.

• Here is for example Scotty rod holders on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sco...)
• Here is Railblaza rod holders on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rai...)

We also offer rod holders V2 compatible with newest mounting patches in our Accessories section. Please note that V1 rod holders will fit, but will not lock into provided socket adapters.

Examples of Scotty and Railblaza rod holders installation:

Bonus Idea: Use kayak gear tracks available on Amazon to attach extra gear to the edges of aluminum benches:

ANSWER:

Most inflatable vessels have tubes divided into two or more separate air chambers. Typically, dinghy boats are designed with three air chambers, although some models can feature up to five. The chamber separators are not flat; they are elongated, resembling duffel bags. Consequently, when one chamber is inflated, it may push into adjacent chambers, giving the impression that they are also inflating, which can be misleading. However, air does not actually transfer between chambers.

It is crucial to inflate all chambers to approximately equal pressure. Avoid inflating one chamber to its maximum pressure before inflating the others. Instead, inflate the first chamber to about 80% capacity before proceeding to inflate the remaining chambers. Due to the design of the elongated chamber separators, when one chamber deflates, it can cause adjacent chambers to partially deflate as well, though not completely.

The internal baffle separates the air chambers. It may protrude if one chamber is inflated more than the adjacent chamber. Inflate both chambers to equal pressure.

ANSWER:

Make sure the boat tubes are fully inflated to the recommended air pressure. If your boat comes with an air floor, ensure that the air floor is also fully inflated, as it is what pushes the tubes apart. To make the aluminum benches fit more snugly between the seat straps, flip the bench over and remove the three screws holding each plastic hook. Reposition the hooks about 1/2 inch to 1 inch closer together, drill small new holes, and reinstall the three screws for each hook. It's best to place a mark for the new hook positions on the bottom of the bench while it is placed between the straps, before drilling. The old screw holes will not affect the aluminum bench in any way. Moving the plastic hooks closer together reduces the distance between them, allowing the bench to fit more tightly between the straps on the tubes.

ANSWER:

Repair Instructions for Rod Holder Patch with Loose Brass Insert

It has come to our attention that a small number of rod holder patches may have brass inserts that can pop out of their sockets. This can occur due to:

• Overheating (e.g., prolonged sun exposure)
• Excessive force when tightening the top rod holder adapter
• Improper factory bonding during assembly, where the brass insert was not fully thermo-bonded into the plastic base

To fix the issue, use any of the following adhesives to reglue insert back into socket:

• Loctite Super Glue Liquid Professional
• LOCTITE Extreme Glue Gel
• Loctite Epoxy
• Loctite Extreme Glue

• Clean the Area:
  Use alcohol or acetone to thoroughly clean both the socket and the brass insert.

• Apply Adhesive:
  Put a small amount of glue around the sides of the brass insert.

• Reinsert the Brass Piece:
  Firmly press the brass insert back into the socket. You can use a small hammer or another heavy object to tap it in gently. Wear gloves to protect your hands while working with glue.

• Optional – Reinforce All Inserts:
  You may also choose to re-glue all remaining brass inserts for added strength.

• Optional – Strengthen Adapter Connection:
  For the strongest, most permanent setup, you can glue the top rod holder adapter to the bottom section while the glue is still slightly tacky. This ensures a tight, durable bond.

Let glue cure fully (refer to glue packaging) before applying force or attaching accessories.

ANSWER:

To prevent damage, never use the front D-ring with the integrated handle to winch or pull a heavily loaded inflatable boat—especially one with a motor or gear—onto a trailer.

Instead, always use the two side towing D-rings. Attach a V-bridle from your winch to both side D-rings to distribute the load properly. Pulling a heavy boat over trailer bunks with the front D-ring can place excessive stress on the PVC fabric, potentially causing damage. This type of damage is considered improper use and is not covered under warranty.

Note: If your trailer does not have rollers, do not use the front D-ring to drag the boat onto the trailer under any circumstances.

ANSWER:

Why Choose Saturn Over Bris Inflatable Boats

Bottom Line

Saturn Boats give you peace of mind, long-lasting performance, and premium features—all at a great value. Bris Boats may seem cheaper upfront, but you risk leaks, weak construction, and limited support.

Invest in a Saturn and enjoy years of worry-free adventures on the water.

ANSWER:

See this video for detailed explanation:

Inflatable floor vs. hard floor in SD330 boat

ANSWER:

It is standard industry practice for inflatable boats—as well as vehicles and other marine products—to be manufactured one or more years prior to their retail sale. Production is typically completed in scheduled batches, followed by periods of storage, distribution, and logistics that may extend over several months or years. As a result, a product may display a manufacturing date from a prior calendar years while still being sold as new, unused merchandise. Across both the marine and automotive industries, the manufacturing date does not affect a product’s new status, performance characteristics, or warranty eligibility. Warranty coverage begins at the time of sale, not at the time of manufacture, and this timing does not diminish any rights or protections afforded to the purchaser.  IMPORTANT: An earlier manufacturing date does not constitute a defect and is not considered a valid basis for requesting a full refund or product return.

ANSWER:

If air bubbles appear under the tracking pad of your inflatable paddle board, it is usually caused by heat expanding trapped air between the deck pad and the PVC surface. It is quite a common issue which is easy to repair. In most cases, the actual inflatable chamber is not punctured and the board remains fully functional. Follow the instructions below to repair the issue.

How to Fix Air Bubbles Under an Inflatable Paddle Board Tracking Pad

1. Inflate the Board Inflate the paddle board to its normal recommended PSI so the surface becomes firm and easier to work on.
2. Locate the Bubble Identify the raised or soft area under the tracking pad. This is usually trapped air or gas between the pad and the PVC deck.
3. Puncture the Bubble Carefully Using a safety pin, hypodermic needle, or similar thin sharp object, insert it very shallow at approximately a 10° angle into the side or edge of the bubble. Important:

• Insert horizontally, not straight down
• Be careful not to puncture the inflatable chamber underneath

1. Release the Trapped Air Press firmly on the bubble and slowly push the trapped air toward the small hole until the bubble flattens completely.
2. Apply Heat Warm the area gently using a hair dryer or low-temperature heat gun. This helps soften the original adhesive and allows the tracking pad to re-bond to the board surface. Important:

• Do not overheat
• Keep the heat source moving continuously
• Excessive heat may damage PVC material

1. Press the Pad Flat Once warm, press the tracking pad down firmly by hand. You may place a flat heavy object over the area for several hours to help the glue reattach evenly.
2. Seal the Pin Hole (Optional) If desired, apply a small clear patch from the included PVC repair kit or marine patch kit over the tiny pinhole area. Allow adhesive to cure fully before use.

If the Bubble Returns or Glue Will Not Hold

If the deck pad continues lifting or will not stay flat, the original adhesive may have failed.

1. Carefully peel back the loose section of deck pad
2. Remove old glue residue
3. Clean both surfaces with rubbing alcohol
4. Apply a thin layer of marine adhesive such as:
   • HH-66 Vinyl Cement
   • Marine contact cement
5. Allow adhesive to become tacky according to glue instructions
6. Press pad firmly back into place
7. Secure with packing tape or weight while curing for 24–48 hours

Important Notes

• This issue is relatively common on inflatable SUPs exposed to high heat or direct sunlight
• In most cases, it is cosmetic and does not affect air retention of the board itself
• If unsure or uncomfortable performing the repair, contact the manufacturer before attempting repair
• Always avoid inserting needles deeply into the board, as this can puncture the air chamber underneath